Detailed explanation of the types of fancy yarns 2025

Core summary: Due to the special structure of the yarn, the production process of fancy yarns is relatively difficult compared to ordinary ring-spun yarns. Therefore, according to the structural characteristics of different fancy yarns, corresponding technical measures should be taken to stabilize the production status and ensure product quality. However, fancy yarns have relatively high added value and are one of the directions for adjusting the product structure of enterprises.

In recent years, fancy yarns and their fabrics have been loved by consumers as a new star in the textile market and have become a fashionable trend.

1. The concept of fancy yarns

Fancy yarns refer to yarns produced by special processing technology that have irregular or regular changes in appearance and structure, which are different from ordinary yarns. As a unique branch of yarn, fancy yarns have been widely used in various fields of the textile industry with their novel structure, colorful appearance and easy to create new effects.

2. Difficulties and requirements in producing fancy yarns

2.1 Confirming the style of fancy yarns is quite difficult

Customers often take out a few or small pieces from clothing or home textiles and ask the manufacturer to analyze the raw material composition, twist, twist ratio and other process parameters of the core yarn, decorative yarn and consolidation yarn, and then try the sample.

Generally, the process design and trial production are carried out after the sample analysis. The products produced in this process can only be approximate and can only be put into production after the customer confirms. If the customer requires that it is exactly the same as the sample, all the details such as production equipment and raw materials must be clarified before mass production can be achieved.

In addition to sample analysis, this type of product also needs to add some design ideas. Some products may change their appearance or even be completely unrecognizable when the raw materials change, so designers are required to have rich experience and judgment ability.

It should be noted that if the sample is removed from clothing, it has been processed through multiple processes, while what we design is the unfinished yarn. After finishing, the shrinkage of the core yarn and the consolidation yarn often causes qualitative changes in the pattern. Therefore, when making samples, we should consider the process factors such as raw materials, equipment, driving speed, twist, etc.

2.2 Innovative independent design, active proofing, leading the trend

Designers usually generate inspiration through market research, conduct conceptual design, and take the initiative to innovate in order to lead customer consumption. Structural design can be carried out on the basis of the original better fancy yarn products to derive a batch of new products.

Such as bamboo yarn, gradient bamboo yarn (that is, the speed of the middle roller changes according to the requirements, and the speed of the back roller also changes according to the requirements), AB yarn, color dot yarn, knot yarn, color dot bamboo yarn, segment color bamboo yarn, etc.

3. Development and production of colored dot yarn

Colored dot yarn is a new type of yarn made by making particles of chemical fibers such as cotton, polyester-cotton, wool, acrylic, and viscose fibers formed on the carding machine, such as the cutter pattern, belly pattern, wool scraps, and scraps of silk or viscose filaments, and then dyed as needed, and then spun on cotton spinning equipment or wool spinning equipment.

3.1 Development and production of colored dot yarn on cotton spinning equipment

To produce colored dot yarn, first produce particles. Cotton particles use cotton short fibers. Reverse the cover plate on the carding machine so that the fibers have no combing effect but only peeling effect between the cylinder and the cover plate. The fibers are repeatedly rubbed and entangled with each other to form particles. After the particles are made, if colored dot yarn is to be produced.

3.2 Technical requirements for the production of colored dot yarn in each process

3.2.1 Blowing process

According to the requirements for producing particle cotton rolls, adjust the corresponding special process requirements such as the falling area and the beater in the blowing process. In the particle production process, mix the produced particles with normal cotton fibers in the cotton box.

3.2.2 Combing process

The active cover, front and rear fixed cover and other related main process parameters of the carding machine for producing particle sliver are adjusted according to customer requirements, color point size and yarn quantity to play the role of initial combing.

The spacing between the cylinder and the cover is enlarged, so that the fiber returns to the cylinder and the doffer needle surface many times and enters the working area many times, making the particles more compact. Most of the tightly rubbed particles enter the cotton net on the doffer, and a small number of large particles that fall into the belly of the car can be mixed with the particles on the doffer cotton net and fed into the cotton box again, so that the surface of the finished fabric can have a strong three-dimensional sense.

3.2.3 Combining process

Particle sliver and conventional sliver can be fed into the first drawing machine according to the process ratio. After two merging, the particles will be evenly distributed in the sliver. In these two processes, because the number of particles contained in the sliver is large, it is easier to wrap around the roller during the drafting process.

Appropriate drawing process can be adjusted appropriately. The coarse yarn should be of small quantity and the twist coefficient of the coarse yarn should be increased to increase the cohesion between the particles and the whiskers. The twist coefficient should be increased to reduce the loss of particles during the spinning process and prevent the spun yarn from being stretched. The twist coefficient can generally be increased by 15-20% compared with ordinary yarn.

3.2.4 Spun yarn process

Due to the poor combing of non-particle fibers in the particle sliver, the spinnability and yarn strength of the particle yarn are reduced, and it is easy to break. Therefore, the drafting multiple of the back zone should be appropriately increased (about 1.7 times), and the center distance of the roller should be appropriately increased. The spindle speed is reduced by about 20% compared with normal spinning, and the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is increased by 5-10% compared with normal spinning. The wire ring uses a large-channel round wire ring to allow the particles to pass smoothly. The above measures can reduce breakage and improve productivity.

4. Development and production of big-belly yarn

4.1 Basic difference between big-belly yarn and slubby yarn

The basic difference between big-belly yarn and slubby yarn is the difference between the thickness of the yarn and the base yarn. The thick knot of slubby yarn is generally within 5 times thicker than the base yarn, and most of the slubby yarn is controlled within 2 times, so the slubby yarn is not very obvious in the whole yarn. When used, it is often used after twisting with a yarn with the same density as the base yarn; while the ratio between the big knot and the base yarn of big-belly yarn is more than 5 times, sometimes even more than 10 times, so the big knot is very obvious.

Another difference is: slubby yarn requires the thick knot to be very short and the base yarn part to be very long, generally no more than two slubby yarns per centimeter; while big-belly yarn sometimes has a longer belly than thin knots.

4.2 Ways to develop big-belly yarn

4.2.1 Development and production of big-belly yarn on spinning machine

When producing big-belly yarn on cotton spinning machine, the main method is to stop the front roller so that the fibers sent by the middle and rear rollers are accumulated behind the front rollers. When the front roller moves, the accumulated fibers are taken away to form a big belly. If you want to produce a larger big-belly yarn, you can increase the quantitative of the roving and reduce the draft in the back zone.

4.2.2 Development and production of big-belly yarn on roving machine

In recent years, extra-thick big-belly yarn has been very popular, while big-belly yarn of about 2000tex (0.5 tex) can no longer be produced on general spinning machines. Using the middle and rear rollers to overfeed on wool spinning roving machines to produce big-belly yarn can achieve good results. Using a frequency converter or servo system to drive the middle and rear rollers can spin regular or irregular big-belly yarn.

5. Development and production of composite gradient slub yarn and segment color yarn

5.1 Composite gradient slub yarn

The joint shape of ordinary slub yarn can be fine-tuned through the joint shape parameters. Some slub shapes need to be flat, and some slub shapes need to be steeper. They need to be spun according to market samples. The slub yarn on the market generally has a fixed slub ratio, and the overall thickness of a slub is consistent.

A gradient slub yarn that changes from head to tail like a parabola, that is, a longer slub yarn is made to slowly transition to a certain high point and then slowly return to the base yarn, or there are ups and downs on the same slub, which can meet the requirements for long slubs.

5.2 Composite Gradient Segment Color Yarn

When spinning segment color yarn, the middle roller uses a servo motor, and the rear roller uses a servo motor to drive it separately. The middle roller is used to spin gradient bamboo yarn, and the rear roller is fed intermittently. Then the style of segment color is more varied. It can generate gradient bamboo yarn. There are segment colors (i.e., nodes in nodes) on the gradient bamboo yarn. There are colored bamboo nodes in the middle of the bamboo nodes, and there can be colored nodes in the back. Therefore, we say gradient segment color bamboo yarn, which is a combination of bamboo yarn. The thickness of the segment color bamboo nodes can change at any time, and the special yarn required by the market can be produced at will.

5.3 Precautions for the use and installation of the double-eye yarn guide trumpet head for segment color yarn

The one-piece double-eye yarn guide trumpet head is a special part designed and developed for the matching segment color yarn device. It is suitable for the matching modification of the segment color yarn device. It is easy to install and use, saves costs, and is very helpful to improve the quality of segment color yarn. Whether the one-piece double-eye yarn guide trumpet head is correctly installed or not will affect the use effect.

(1) The large opening of the double-eye horn faces upwards, and the small opening faces downwards. They cannot be reversed, otherwise the traction resistance of the passage to the roving strip will increase. Even the roving strip cannot pass through.

(2) The double-ear bayonet of the one-piece double-eye horn head clamps the diameter of the small iron roller on both sides of 11.5.

(3) Before the double-ear clamps the small iron roller core shaft, align the middle cavity of the one-piece double-eye horn head with the tail end of the plastic upper pin, and then push it in. Make the middle cavity and double ears of the horn head clamp the tail end of the plastic upper pin and the small iron roller core shaft to ensure the installation height of the horn head. Otherwise, various undesirable phenomena will occur, such as the roving strip being pulled off, the segmented roving strip being blocked, etc.

(4) A common installation defect is that the tail end of the plastic upper pin is not inserted into the middle cavity of the horn head, making it impossible to locate the height of the horn head installation, resulting in either too high or too low.

(5) We recommend that the roving quantity be slightly smaller to facilitate the passage of the roving.

VI. Prevention of color difference in fancy yarn

One of the most common quality problems in the production of fancy yarn is color difference. Therefore, a series of measures must be taken to prevent color difference in the production of fancy yarn.

6.1 The arrangement of the rovings entering the middle roller or the back roller must be uniform

(1) If A yarn is on the left and B yarn is on the right, the arrangement of the rovings on all spindles must be on the left. It is absolutely impossible for one spindle to have A yarn on the left and another spindle to have A yarn on the right, otherwise it is very easy to cause color difference.

(2) The obvious color yarn should be arranged on the left, so that the secondary color covers the main color and it is not easy to have color difference.

6.2 Reasonable use of double-eye yarn guide

A double-eye yarn guide must be used at the entrance of the back roller to keep a certain distance between the two rovings to avoid mixing of fibers during traction.

6.3 Reasonable selection of process parameters

(1) Minimize the twist difference as much as possible, because too large a difference in spindle speed will increase the uneven twist and cause color difference.

(2) When drafting, minimize the drafting in the back area, keep the pressure of the cradle consistent, and ensure uniform yarn.

Due to the special structure of the yarn, the production process of fancy yarn is more difficult than that of ordinary ring-spun yarn. Therefore, according to the structural characteristics of different fancy yarns, corresponding technical measures should be taken to stabilize the production status and ensure product quality. However, fancy yarn has a relatively high added value and is one of the directions for adjusting the product structure of enterprises.